Official Ottawa Area Snowblower Registry Benefits

By Registering your Snowblower, you receive the following benefits:

1. Free inclusion for life & transferable to a new or newer used machine!
2. Detailed Service History Recorded
3. Waterproof  Service Label for Emergency Contact
4. Free 26 Point check-up/inspection and RPM test yearly before the snow begins!
5. Free roadside assistance on first No-Start!
6. Free Spring Mower Blade Sharpening with completed tune-up/servicing
7. 2 Sens hockey tickets raffle for members only - January 17th each year!
8. Limited membership!

To Register Now, visit www.snowblower.es and enter your details - it's that simple!
                                           
                                              Thank you for your Participation,  Al  Mora

Proper Snowblower Starting Procedure!

You know, it never ceases to amaze me over the years how many owners cause some of their own Snowblower Problems in the area of  Proper Starting Procedure.  Yes, there should be a CD devoted to proper care (regular tune-up, yearly oil change and gas treatment) and correct starting procedure.  But sadly there isn't and this means you need to be educated by Al - the EXPERT!
I have already seen this season where the owner's have been keeping the choke on way too much causing fouling, flooding and even premature spark plug death!  Coupled with bad oil and gas which has not been treated, its makes starting this year's blower that much harder.  So first of all, clean or better yet, change your plug if the ceramic innard has turned brown/black and appears wet!
Now that your plug is taken care of - read carefully the proper starting steps involved!
1) Make sure your starting Key is inserted.
2) Make sure your on/off switch is on the ON position if you have one.
3) Make sure your gas shut off valve is in the ON position if you have one.
4) Make sure your choke switch is in the full position.  This usually means in the full right position but not always with some newer models where the reverse is full choke.  Check the machine and your owners manual for correct position.
5) Now prime the Primer bulb 3 times hard like your poking your hated boss' eye!
6) Insert your extension cord and press your electric starter for no more than 3 seconds or pull your starter cord.
7) Once engine engages, reduce your choke to the 3/4 or even half position depending on the health of your machine.
8) Let machine warm up for 5-7 minutes and take choke position to the off position.  Machines with sick carburetors will not allow for this so you may have to run on 1/2 and worse 3/4 position.

p.s.  Before beginning the above procedure, place the Throttle handle in either Top Position of  75% of the way up.  Never start your machine with your engine Throttle less than 75% of full position.

So there you have it for those of you who forget from year to year.  Now you can come back yearly and review Al's instructions and save your money at the same time.
For more information or servicing requests, please visit my website at snowblower.es  

The Dangers Of Ethanol Fuel To Small Engines

Ethanol and Its Poison Effects on Outdoor Power Equipment!

In today's world of rising gasoline prices, ethanol-blended fuels are increasingly more common. In many Provinces, the standard gasoline available for consumer purchase at the pump already contains 10 percent ethanol (commonly referred to as "E10" fuel), and some areas will soon see the introduction of E15, a gasoline blend that contains 15 percent ethanol. The problem is that E15 fuels pose serious problems for many of the engines that power lawnmowers, chainsaws, trimmers and other outdoor power equipment.

The Problems with E15

The Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI) has advocated nationally regarding the damaging effects of ethanol-based fuels on small-engine equipment. These fuels, due to their corrosive nature, can seriously damage fuel systems that are not designed to handle them. E15 fuels burn significantly hotter, and as a result, they can cause a small engine to overheat. In addition, these increased-ethanol fuel blends can absorb a great deal of airborne water (which in humid or damp operating conditions makes the engine very difficult to start) and are hard to ignite within a carburetor during cold weather.

While E10 fuels are approved for use in lawnmowers and other outdoor power equipment, gasoline blends that contain higher levels of ethanol are not. In fact, the use of a fuel with more than 10 percent ethanol can actually void your equipment's warranty. (Check your equipment's owner's manual to find out what fuel is recommended for use.) And in many cases, you may actually see a warning sticker around the gas cap that clearly states that no fuels with a higher percentage of ethanol than 10 percent can be used.

Know What You Purchase

To ensure that you don't inadvertently cause engine or fuel system damage to your outdoor power equipment, check to see what type of gasoline your local service station sells. (All fuel pumps are required to display a label that lets you know the percentage of ethanol, if any, in the gasoline.) Never purchase gasoline with more than 10 percent ethanol for your outdoor power equipment. If you live in a state that mandates ethanol blends (as many states in the Corn Belt do), you can go a step further and purchase what's commonly referred to as "non-oxygenated" fuel. While not as readily available as standard ethanol-blended gasoline, this ethanol-free fuel is approved for use in outdoor power equipment as well as in motorcycles, off-road vehicles, boats and other recreational vehicles.

While the EPA did approve E15 fuels for use in automobiles produced after 2007, additional legislation regarding E15's overall use has been put on hold until additional studies have been conducted on its impact on small engines. Nevertheless, when it comes to fueling outdoor power equipment, consumers should stay alert at the gas pumps and know what they're purchasing.

The moral of this story is avoid Ethanol laced gasoline.  Buy Quality Shell Gold gasoline or high test that is stated to contain 0% Ethanol for your mower, snowblower and other outdoor power equipment!  Also, remember to treat your gas can immediately with fuel stabiliizer.

For Those Do-It-Yourselfers!

Winter is here. And here in the Ottawa - Orleans area, that means one thing – snow, cold and more snow and cold likely! If you ask any anyone, they’ll tell you that snow removal is one of the biggest headaches of the season (and we know our neighbors in New England know what we’re talking about!)

Luckily, with a well-tuned snow blower, snow removal can be less of a hassle, leaving more time for the winter activities we all love, like making snowmen with the kids, skiing or a good old-fashioned snowball fight.

Use Cold Weather Oil for Snow Blowers

Like any outdoor power equipment, using the proper small engine oil is essential to the snow blower maintenance. Specialized low temperature oil can help ensure optimal performance in chilly weather as most are designed to work best in temperatures under 20C. The oil I use when checking and changing the oil on my snowthrower in the fall is Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-30 Small Engine Oil, which provides the best protection down to -36C.  When you change your oil, follow the instructions in your manual for the correct process and quantity.  However, for those of you more economy minded, a good quality 5W30 from Valvoline or Castrol wil do just fine!

Add Fuel Treatment to Your Snow Engine

When performing snow blower maintenance, another important consideration is using fuel treatment. Fuel stabilizer helps protect your snow blower engine, preventing against the build-up of gums or varnishes that could clog fuel lines and kill your carburetor.   It also keeps the gasoline fresh, ensuring easy starts and combustion. I find the most convenient time to add fuel stabilizer is by putting it in my gas can before filling it up at the service station.  That way I can be sure I am pouring treated fuel regardless if I’m filling up my mower in September or my snow thrower a month later.  Adding stabilizer to old fuel doesn’t ‘reset the clock’, so make sure you add it soon after you purchase the gas.

Swap Out New Snow Blower Parts during Tune-up

Keeping the engine of your snow blower properly tuned up can not only optimize performance, but can lengthen the life of your machinery. Stock up on snow blower parts, like spark plugs, quality 5W30 and fuel treatment from Canadian Tire before the first snowstorm hits and you’ll be ready to clear the driveway when the time comes.

What if your snow blower clogs during use?

To safely clear a clogged discharge chute, follow these instructions:

1. Shut OFF the engine.
2. Wait 10 seconds and visually check to be sure the impeller blades have stopped rotating.
3. Always use a clean-out tool, not your hands.

Spring Snowblower Tune-Up????

I know what most of you are thinking!  What, Tune-Up my Snowblower in April or May! What are you thinking...we might get a snowstorm in June???  Well, when you have done as many Snowblower Tune-Ups as I have over the years, you start to see what exactly the life cycle holds for these warriors of  the cold, wet and snow!
You see, the main enemy of your Snowblower is all the fluctuations in temperature between last use (Feb. or Mar.) and the first use of next season!  Yes, temperature fluctuations and the old gas left in your machine are the Cancer cells waiting to attack! True, a few of you do drain the gas but the problem is not in the gas tank per say as it is the residue gas remaining in the carburetor bowl and channels!  This is the gas that goes bad, sour and turns green and leaves my hands stinking for days even with multiple washes!  This is the poison that dries up, clogging the channels and emulsion tube of your machine's carburetor! Ever wonder why your 2-8 year old machine only runs on 3/4 or 1/2 chock best.... it's because your machine is already partially plugged up.  In order for the reduced amount of gas vapor making it into your machine's engine chamber, the carburetor has to equally reduce the air coming in to compensate for a too high air/gas ratio.  So now your know...why treating you gas or gas can with fuel stabilizer is very important....a Small Engine Tech will do this as part of the Spring tune-up.
Secondly, old worn oil left in your machine is also a problem waiting to happen as particles can work their way to the carburetor further compounding a bad problem.  Changing your oil at end of season is the best solution as your machine will stay cleaner and a clean snowblower is a happy one! Remember to use quality 5W30 or Snowblower Oil made especially for blowers.  Once again, a Spring tune-up by your small engine tech will take care of this...
Your machine was made for years of dependable service.  However, new machines are made with thinner and cheaper quality steel hull contruction. This means with all that wet exposure during the snow season, your machine will start rusting out from day 1.  Your small engine tech will know to lubricate all the places vulnerabe and those difficult to reach such as the gear housing and a few places under the machine.  Also, the auger housing needs special attention with low temperature grease in order to prevent a vibration from developing.  Again, your small engine tech will take care of this for you when completing your Spring tune-up.
The Snowblower business is seasonal.  You don't need to be a genius to figure that one out!  But by waiting to Oct., Nov., or Dec. to receive your  tune-up/serving, your probably paying a seasonal premium.  The moral here is get your Snowblower tune-up in early Spring to keep your machine the healthiest and save money.  Savings can be as great as 50+ dollars per tune-up!
Finally, why wait until late Fall to get your tune-up?  Most small engine shops are very busy at this time with blowers and do you really think yours will get the full attention it needs?  Likely not as the assembly line must move on.  Additionally, wait times are longer and you may need to have it trasported there and back which is costly.  Look for a qualified mobile tech who can perform the tune-up right in your garage.  You can then watch the whole process and make sure your getting your monies worth!  Oh, and more point!  By getting this tune-up early, you won't suffer from potential parts which may need to be ordered to fix your machine.  After all, it's Spring and time is on your side!
So, don't hesitate, call your small engine tech in April and book your tune-up! You will be happy you did and your pocket book even happier!
Once last important point!  Less than 1 snowblower in a thousand is treated regularly with Polymer in the auger housing area!  What your saying??  Yes, similar to non-stick cooking spray, the Polymer spray is lightly absorbed and not only does your snow NOT stick to the metal but you can throw it up to 20% further!  Sadly, those 999 blowers not treated are those tune-up in wet late Fall or early Winter.  The auger housing is already moist, wet or worse, has snow and/or ice build up within.  Thus, Polymer treatment is almost futile!  Yes, it can be done but not properly or to high standards.  Just the cold itself will prevent a good bind with the metal!  So what are you waiting for, pick up that phone in April and get your blower done right!

An Argument For Annual Blower Tune-Ups!

You know I heard it over and over again in 13 years of servicing small engine equipment - "My blower is good" says the client or prospect!  At the same time, the Blower looks like it is on  life support!  A simple glance and it tells me -  help me....
This may sound a bit melodramatic but is not too far off the mark in reality... if people were treated this badly by others, it would be labeled abuse...
But sadly machines are machines and their owner are sadly sometimes both abusive and/or cheap!  Afraid to spend a dime after the initial purchase and believing they know what it needs through the years...actually anything could be further from the truth!  Blowers are not  lawn mowers!  They need attention yearly and need to be kept clean to be happy.  To start, new blowers are not treated anymore with grease at the factory in the places they need to be lubricated... auger area, wheels, inner gears and chassis.  You may wonder why...well its called Cost and manufacturers can save a bundle not having to buy buckets full of grease to do the job right!  Sadly for you this means a machine which can lock up (gear shaft and even wheel releases), develop an auger vibration or worse, rust away within a number of short years as the steel thickness has also been reduced tremendously over earlier models.
Second, snowblowers do not have air filters like your mower... and worse, their carburetors are more complex and prone to particulate accumulation and pluggage.  So gas has to be kept healthy throughout the season with fuel stabilizer or drained.  The first option has gained in popularity over the recent years because with older models there is the chance of float stickage and gas running all over your garage floor! What would you do????  Probably panic because you would not know the problem or how to fix it... so treat your gas! Not treating your gas and leaving old gas will eventually lead to green smelly gas algae accumulation and coating and blockage of your carburetor emulsion tube or secondary emulsion channel...
Third, people often tell me they don't change their machine's oil yearly!  I look at them like they haven't taken a bath in months and they smile!  You don't leave the oil in your car there for 7 years so why do it to your power equipment??? Again, abuse - conscious or unconscious!  Do you expect your machine to purr when the oil is as thick as molasses and as black as a witches culdron?? Your on borrowed time if you think so! Snowblower engines have not evolved like our car engines and are still like 56 Chevy type engines... they grind oil even after only 2-3 uses so change that oil yearly!
Fourth, you need to give concern to your blower's spark plug.  You are starting in cold weather and you need a quality plug and a clean plug.  Invest in a good quality NGK plug and change it every 2 season for optimum starting!  Don't go more than 3 winters with the same old plug!
Fifth, your tires need attention... in 89% of the snowblowers I service, tire inflation is almost at flat level. Tires are deceptive, especially those with with long extending stubs.  Measure your PSI before the season begins...preferably in Nov/Dec and inflate accordingly.  Remember, if your tires are extremely under inflated, your doing a third more of the pushing necessary and if you have heart issues, your asking for the big one unconsciously!  Better yet, trust a Professional!  Ask them how many blowers they have serviced? If they can't claim 100's with an honest look, move to the next Professional!  A proper snowblower tune-up should take 45 minutes to 1.5 hours maximum unless there are repair issues also involved.
So now you know why your machine needs maintenance yearly!  A professional tune-up and yearly follow up care is best as the work is less following the main tune-up and should be properly reflected in the next years price.
P.S.  Your Auger Belt needs attention if your machine is more than 3-4 years old.  What is the use of having a snowblower if you can't throw the snow beyond 2 inches????  Yes, on some machines, proper adjustment can be made and on others, sadly a new belt is required.  This is a difficult procedure and unless you are mechanical oriented, leave it to the Pro's!  So start loving your machine, and it will reward you with many years of dependable service and not cry out from abuse and cost you even bigger dollars in the long run!

Maintaining Your Snowblower's Good Health

To keep your Snowblower healthy from the start:

1) Change your oil every year even if only used a couple times using high grade 5W30
2) Change your Spark Plug every 2 years to prevent hard starting.
3) Make sure your tires are inflated to the proper PSI in Nov.  Big Problem and unbalanced machine not good for the engine nor for your heart.  Underinflated tires cause you to push 20% harder - so check your tires always!
4) Treat your gas container ALWAYS with Fuel Stabilizer.
5) Lubricate your Auger Housing with low temperature grease.
6) Start your Snowblower every 6 months minimum so engine can stay healthy.
7) Do NOT store your Snowblower outside either uncovered or covered....mice will enter the gear housing and eat at your Auger Belt and leave a mess or worse - nest in there!
8) Use Premium Shell Gasoline in your Gas Container...Shell Premium contains no Methanol (gums up Carburetor) and is high in Nitrogen for a cleaner burn. 
   
These are just the first steps but important ones! For a complete Expert Tune-Up or Winter Servicing/Repair - call Al @ 613 315-1590 or visit our  website:  www.snowblower.es